I’m taking a break from alcohol as I work to get in better shape. It’s been more than a month. Not drinking is easy. Not drinking while socializing is hard.

I took for granted the extent to which responsible social drinking is as much about ritual as intoxication. Everything from trying a new porter to experimenting with Old Fashioned recipes is fun. Doing it with people you love or laugh with is even better.

As I’ve written before, there are barriers to the adoption of non-alcoholic versions of alcoholic drinks. The functionality of alcohol as a social lubricant, as well as alcohol’s ability to lessen inhibition, are built-in mechanisms that drive consumption rates and make premium pricing palatable. Non-alcoholic replacements for booze don’t share those advantages.

Now, I find myself — like so many other consumers — not wanting to...